
Later I thought Cezanne was probably hungry in a different way. It was one of those unsound but illuminating thoughts you have when you have been sleepless or hungry. I used to wonder if he were hungry too when he painted but I thought it was possibly only that he had forgotten to eat. I learned to understand Cezanne much better and to see truly how he made landscapes when I was hungry. Ernest Hemingway’s classic memoir of Paris in the 1920s, now available in a restored edition, includes the original manuscript along with insightful recollections and unfinished sketches. There you could always go into the Luxembourg museum and all the paintings were heightened and clearer and more beautiful if you were belly-empty, hollow-hungry.

Then you were skipping meals at a time when you had given up journalism and were writing nothing that anyone in America would buy, explaining at home that you were lunching out with someone, the best place to do it was the Luxembourg gardens where you saw and smelled nothing to eat all the way from the place de l'Observatoire to the rue de Vaugirard. You got very hungry when you did not eat enough in Paris because all the bakery shops had such good things in the windows and people ate outside at tables on the sidewalk so that you saw and smelled the food.
